Off 1st street, near Bowery, there’s a street not on the radar of most New Yorkers. The Oaxaca Taqueria, a bakery and a pop-up shop are usually the only things that distinguish it as more than a quiet alley. But, on Saturday night, a group of men in leather jackets in dhoti pants and more than a few women in platform booties sporting half-shaved heads crowded into Extra Place, in front of a very unassuming door. Through that door and down a flight of cracked concrete stairs lies a part of the basement of what once was CBGB’s, now a fairly secret events space, and the site of Odyn Vovk’s A/W 2011 runway presentation. Being that Odyn Vovk is a line for a new generation of punks, the stylistic great-grandchildren of the originals, the clothes very much belonged there.
Odyn Vovk’s collections, always very cerebral, are also always accompanied by philosophical explanations. According to the programs for this season the collection is “a foot print of eagerness, which circles the unconscious evolving motion…”Spiral” is created on the basis that life does not happen without the mind exploring new challenges, allowing the human to truthfully create beauty.” And from looking at seasons past, it seems Sherbanenko most definitely is being true to his visions of beauty while allowing himself room to explore, something that is earning him an ever growing amount of respect and recognition in the fashion world.
Out of all the collection’s we’ve covered so far at Fashion 360 Magazine, Bebe’s was most definitely the brightest. Nearly every primary and highlighter color was represented over the course of the runway show at the Style360 pavilion on Wednesday. Paired with black, the magentas, cyans, neon greens, and yellows made for a very graphically bold collection that also seemed aimed at a much younger crowd than the other shows this fashion week.
One-piece color blocked swimsuits paired with sheer tutus, bright pink varsity jackets with chrome tipped heels, and streaks of pink, yellow and blue throughout the model’s wavy ponytails were all quite young and true to what Bebe carries in stores, but more sophisticated and toned down pieces were also present: a velvet deep turquoise body con dress and a royal blue pleated leather dress stood out from the rest. And, of course, their signature super-high platform going out heels made an appearance as well.
Backstage before Wes Gordon’s F/W 2011 collection preview was a controlled chaos of models and make-up, with a constant stream of women with identical manicures (a custom-mixed slate grey from Dashing Divas) and swathes of brilliant blood colored lipstick passing between the dressers and the make-up table.
Gordon appeared periodically to survey the scene, tall, collected and looking comfortable in a tailored suit. Though he is only in his mid-twenties, he’s been in the business for years; making dresses for friends in London (lucky girls), and working for Oscar de La Renta and Tom Ford.
It was clear even in the fray with this newest collection Wes has cemented his status as a designer to keep an eye on. His Fall 2011 collection befit the St. Regis, with the shimmering, liquid gold dresses and blouses, sequin and bead encrusted sleeves and necklines echoing the chandeliers above, and fur collars that could very belong to the shoulders of the women who stay at the hotel.
There are few things Marcia Patmos could have done to make her F/W collection presentation feel more like a family gathering in some exotic desert locale, and they would mostly involve the presence of wild animals and home cooked food. She was a warm and gracious hostess, introducing herself casually and smiling the whole night through. It was calm all around, in fact–dim, golden lighting and draped canvas, an guitarist playing free-form acoustic folk and Robert Verdi commented on the hush of the room while he conducted his interview of the designer, one of this year’s Ecco Domani Fashion Fund award winners.
Prior to last spring, Patmos was one half of Lutz and Patmos, known for luxury knits and pieces so perfect for layering that it almost made you happy it was below thirty degrees. With her solo line, she demonstrates that she can gracefully move along with new silhouettes (nearly every length of hemline was present: maxi, mini, knee-length, midi, ankle-grazing skirts, leggings, leather shorts and loose, obscenely comfortable looking pants) while sticking to her guns–knitwear and impeccable basics.